The team at Heggies (Hill-Smith Family Estates) have the recipe right. While Chardonnay is somewhat the handmaiden to EV Riesling Queen, quality is evident. Winemaker is Marc Van Halderen. 30% new oak while the ferment goes through ‘passive malo.’ Lees stirring at 4-6 weeks. Fresh, with clean restrained nose that develops in the glass and even more so on the palate. Unripe strawberry, vanilla bean, lemon shortbread, dinner roll doughiness, soft stone fruit, tobacco leaf and some funky edges. Savoury, with grip and slightly thick texture that overrides all at the moment. Has some chunk with a that touch of funk to finish a touch square. Juicy acidity comes late for the clean up.

A fresh approach by Hill Smith Family Estates winemaker Marc van Halderen has produced a fresher, more appealing and more modern style of Chardonnay. The older wines always seemed a bit too oaky to me, and didn’t give the Eden Valley fruit a chance to shine. 94+ points, heading for 95.

From a vineyard planted to Chardonnay and Riesling (2/3rd 1/3). The Chardonnay is predominantly Mendoza clone (for those inclined) along with a good mix of other clones. Winemaker Marc van Halderen offered that as a brand they're seeking to bring a revival back to Heggie's Chardonnay. Residual oak showing, not heavy handed. More overt and textural, broader in profile - certainly in comparison to the leaner Yalumba Samuel's Collection. There's a generosity of appeal; partial lees stirring occurs every 4-6 weeks to build an element of texture. Citrus, vanilla bean and a doughy edge here. Gentle cleansing, grapefruit acidity through the finish.